Post by vanman on Feb 3, 2009 1:54:41 GMT -6
This is something I had wondered about for a while and through many online conversations with other drummers who had done this, decided to give it a try on a "disposable" cymbal that I had purchased a while back.
I am not suggesting you do this to ANY cymbal you have that you feel is at least satisfactory as is, because you may damage it or possibly not like the end result.
I had a Saluda splash (one of the first cymbals they produced before they started coming up with some really good stuff IMO) and an off brand "Mica Sonic" 16" crash I'd gotten as a gift probably some 30 years ago. I was not satisfied with how they sounded so decided I'd give hand hammering a try. The hammering should be done on a surface that is in the smae shape of the curvature of the cymbal (so you compact the brass/bronze, rather than just denting the cymbal) with probably a ball pein hammer. Though I see the churches Zildian K custom 20" ride has half moon shape indentations such as being hit with the edge of a regular claw hammer. More research would need to be done to determine what difference, if any that makes.
You'll want a relatively equal distribution of indentations probably starting 1/2-1" from the bell to about the same distance from the edge. You'll note automated hammered cymbals have a regular distribution or pattern to the dents but I've never seen a hand hammered cymbal that way- they always seem to have irregular pattern but even distribution (if that makes any sense) of indentations.
It was taught to me that this hammering, especially if your cymbal doesn't have any hammering on it such would be the case for the cheaper priced stamped, sheet metal cymbals, would add dimension and a shimmer effect to them. I suppose those terms could be relative but in the end I was pleased most with the 16" crash, in fact I keep it on my kit even now, though I may choose other cymbals at performance time. Is this cymbals of equal par to the hand made cast bronze cymbals...no I wouldn't go near that far, but the result was pleasing enough that I've kept within my arsenal several years beyond where I would have replaced it.
This is basically a cost cutting option, as I see it, in that you could try this with a cymbal you were gonna get rid of anyway and if you like the results- keep the cymbal- if you don't like the results...well you were replacing it anyhow
I am not suggesting you do this to ANY cymbal you have that you feel is at least satisfactory as is, because you may damage it or possibly not like the end result.
I had a Saluda splash (one of the first cymbals they produced before they started coming up with some really good stuff IMO) and an off brand "Mica Sonic" 16" crash I'd gotten as a gift probably some 30 years ago. I was not satisfied with how they sounded so decided I'd give hand hammering a try. The hammering should be done on a surface that is in the smae shape of the curvature of the cymbal (so you compact the brass/bronze, rather than just denting the cymbal) with probably a ball pein hammer. Though I see the churches Zildian K custom 20" ride has half moon shape indentations such as being hit with the edge of a regular claw hammer. More research would need to be done to determine what difference, if any that makes.
You'll want a relatively equal distribution of indentations probably starting 1/2-1" from the bell to about the same distance from the edge. You'll note automated hammered cymbals have a regular distribution or pattern to the dents but I've never seen a hand hammered cymbal that way- they always seem to have irregular pattern but even distribution (if that makes any sense) of indentations.
It was taught to me that this hammering, especially if your cymbal doesn't have any hammering on it such would be the case for the cheaper priced stamped, sheet metal cymbals, would add dimension and a shimmer effect to them. I suppose those terms could be relative but in the end I was pleased most with the 16" crash, in fact I keep it on my kit even now, though I may choose other cymbals at performance time. Is this cymbals of equal par to the hand made cast bronze cymbals...no I wouldn't go near that far, but the result was pleasing enough that I've kept within my arsenal several years beyond where I would have replaced it.
This is basically a cost cutting option, as I see it, in that you could try this with a cymbal you were gonna get rid of anyway and if you like the results- keep the cymbal- if you don't like the results...well you were replacing it anyhow